One of the most frequent questions one is asked on the Camino, I'm told, is this, why are you walking the Camino? Clearly, there is no one answer. Each person's reason for walking his or her Camino is as different as each of us is from the other. So then, why do I want to walk the Camino? What is my intention?
The simplest answer is that I felt called to do it. It was an interior summons, direct and insistent and impossible to resist. But not long after I felt that summons, that interior call, something happened to solidify my intention. A young couple I've known for years, dear friends of my daughter, were in a horrific automobile accident. They had gone out for a Christmas tree, when their car was broadsided by a speeding motorist, fleeing from the police. The young woman was seriously injured, but her husband, Chuong, was injured so critically, it was doubtful from the first that he would survive. My heart was wrung out as I waited for news with my daughter. He made it through the first night, and then the next, and the next, but his injuries were manifold and complex, and it wasn't clear what the final outcome would be. I knew then that my intention on the Camino would be for him, either a prayer at the Cathedral of St. James for his recovery, or a prayer of thanksgiving if he had managed by then, against all odds to come back to full health.
Since then, Chuong's recovery has been nothing short of miraculous, because of the strength of his spirit and his body, the outpouring of prayer and support from his wide circle of friends, and the support of his amazing wife, who herself recovered quickly and dedicated all her energies to helping him recover. My own intention has not changed. I know that my pilgrimage will be multi-layered, that I will find myself face to face with much in the depths of my heart and soul, but beyond all that, I will carry in my heart my first intention and lay that at the altar at the Cathedral of St. James in Santiago de Compostela, a prayer of profound thanksgiving for the life and health of our dear friend Chuong Doan.
Friday, April 24, 2015
Plans taking shape
I have my plane tickets, and now I have a reservation for my first night, not in Biarritz, as I first thought, but in Bayonne. I arrive in Paris on September 4 at 6:45 a.m. Then I'll make my way to the Montparnasse Station, unless I leave from the station at Charles de Gaulle airport (TBD), and will take the train to Bayonne. As of today I have a reservation at a small hotel in Bayonne near the train station, the Hotel de la Gare. I've reserved a room with a private bathroom and shower, for a few extra euros, worth it for one of my last nights of privacy.
At this point in my planning, I've had a host of decisions to make, and one was whether to spend a night in Paris or instead to go directly to Bayonne. Since my plane arrives so early in Paris, and since I've lived in Paris for the better part of a year and don't feel the need to be a tourist there, it made sense to me to keep going and hope to sleep on the train a bit before Bayonne. The hotel is near the train station, so while it is a low budget hotel, I'm hoping that it will meet my needs. At the beginning of nearly two months spent in hostels, I won't need luxury at the beginning of my pilgrimage. I might consider that at the end, however!
Then on September 5, I'll catch a train or bus to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I have a reservation at the albergue that has the best reputation in Saint Jean, Beilari (previously l'Esprit du Chemin). I asked for two nights, knowing that most albergues will only let pilgrims stay for one night, unless there are medical reasons to stay longer. I thought it was worth a request, and they've replied that I can stay two nights. I want to stay an extra day and night in SJPDP to recover from jet lag and gear up for the beginning of my pilgrimage, the greatest endeavor of my life. And I have a reservation too for my first night on the Camino, at Orisson, on the way up the mountains towards Spain and the rest of the long pilgrimage.
All of this is still a plan in my head and on paper. It's still not real. But it's already invading my dreams. There, I'm often already on my way. The reservations begin to make it real for me. They give me something to hang my hopes on. After that first night at Orisson, there will be no more reservations, no firm plans at all. From there onward, I'll be trusting in the beneficence of the Way. Or, to put it more bluntly, I'll be flying by the seat of my pants.
At this point in my planning, I've had a host of decisions to make, and one was whether to spend a night in Paris or instead to go directly to Bayonne. Since my plane arrives so early in Paris, and since I've lived in Paris for the better part of a year and don't feel the need to be a tourist there, it made sense to me to keep going and hope to sleep on the train a bit before Bayonne. The hotel is near the train station, so while it is a low budget hotel, I'm hoping that it will meet my needs. At the beginning of nearly two months spent in hostels, I won't need luxury at the beginning of my pilgrimage. I might consider that at the end, however!
Then on September 5, I'll catch a train or bus to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I have a reservation at the albergue that has the best reputation in Saint Jean, Beilari (previously l'Esprit du Chemin). I asked for two nights, knowing that most albergues will only let pilgrims stay for one night, unless there are medical reasons to stay longer. I thought it was worth a request, and they've replied that I can stay two nights. I want to stay an extra day and night in SJPDP to recover from jet lag and gear up for the beginning of my pilgrimage, the greatest endeavor of my life. And I have a reservation too for my first night on the Camino, at Orisson, on the way up the mountains towards Spain and the rest of the long pilgrimage.
All of this is still a plan in my head and on paper. It's still not real. But it's already invading my dreams. There, I'm often already on my way. The reservations begin to make it real for me. They give me something to hang my hopes on. After that first night at Orisson, there will be no more reservations, no firm plans at all. From there onward, I'll be trusting in the beneficence of the Way. Or, to put it more bluntly, I'll be flying by the seat of my pants.
Thursday, April 16, 2015
My Training Plan: Part Two
The thought of subjecting my 73-year-old body to the challenges of a 500 mile trek across Spain's multi-faceted landscape was daunting from the outset, to say the least. But I knew I was in a good place to get started with my fitness training, having worked already for more than two years with a talented and empathetic trainer. Together my trainer Angie and I researched how others have trained for the Camino, Angie considered my needs, what muscles I would be putting to greater use and how to strengthen them, and I began very slowly increasing the number of miles I walked each week.
Now, with more than four months still ahead of me before my starting date, I'm beginning to move outdoors more and slowly to add the weight of the backpack. I still have a very long way to go though, and even small injuries or strains are setbacks. I'm going to need to begin extending the length of my hikes and the weight of my pack, but slowly. Slow and easy is my motto.
At the same time I continue to work with weight training at the gym, hoping that I'll have the strength and stamina for this ambitious adventure. I know I'll ultimately be like all other pilgrims, learning on the road, building up strength on the road, working through my physical problems on the road. With luck, I'll be able to work through and beyond them, without being stopped altogether by them. My dear husband John and I used to say to each other each night before bed, "See you in the morning, God willing and the creek don't rise." I think I'll make it to Santiago de Compostela, God willing and the creek don't rise.
Now, with more than four months still ahead of me before my starting date, I'm beginning to move outdoors more and slowly to add the weight of the backpack. I still have a very long way to go though, and even small injuries or strains are setbacks. I'm going to need to begin extending the length of my hikes and the weight of my pack, but slowly. Slow and easy is my motto.
At the same time I continue to work with weight training at the gym, hoping that I'll have the strength and stamina for this ambitious adventure. I know I'll ultimately be like all other pilgrims, learning on the road, building up strength on the road, working through my physical problems on the road. With luck, I'll be able to work through and beyond them, without being stopped altogether by them. My dear husband John and I used to say to each other each night before bed, "See you in the morning, God willing and the creek don't rise." I think I'll make it to Santiago de Compostela, God willing and the creek don't rise.
Wednesday, April 15, 2015
My Training Plan: Part One
When I committed in my heart and mind to walking the Camino, I knew that I needed ample time to get my body and mind and spirit prepared for what would undoubtedly be the most arduous endeavor of my life. And I've always been the sort of person who likes to be as prepared as I possibly can be for a large undertaking. It's not that I have any illusions that I can be in control of what unfolds in my life, but rather that I'll have a better chance of being able to handle whatever that is.
So when I was pregnant with my first child, I read every book on birthing that I could find, explored options for childbirth (not as varied then as young women find now), chose the LaMaze method, read books, took a course, followed through with the breathing exercises, and, of course, knitted little sweaters and booties and a blanket. I knew I couldn't predict what might happen during my own labor, but I did believe that the more I knew, the better I'd be able to cope with whatever transpired. And I think that was true.
I behaved the same way when my husband was sick with one thing after another, from diabetes to strokes to gall bladder disease to a major heart attack and surgery to kidney failure. I researched and read all that I could find about each problem, hoping to be better prepared and better able to help him. I couldn't know what next might befall him, but at least I could face each event with some understanding of what was happening. It's just the way my brain works, for better or worse. Sometimes "A little learning is a dangerous thing," as Alexander Pope warned, if it leads us to believe we know more than we do, or leads us to believe that we can control what happens to us. But sometimes it helps us cope with the unexpected.
Thus I approached my Camino training with all the enthusiasm of the convert. I read a plethora of books, and then reread my favorites, sometimes three times! Here is a list of the books I've read thus far:
So when I was pregnant with my first child, I read every book on birthing that I could find, explored options for childbirth (not as varied then as young women find now), chose the LaMaze method, read books, took a course, followed through with the breathing exercises, and, of course, knitted little sweaters and booties and a blanket. I knew I couldn't predict what might happen during my own labor, but I did believe that the more I knew, the better I'd be able to cope with whatever transpired. And I think that was true.
I behaved the same way when my husband was sick with one thing after another, from diabetes to strokes to gall bladder disease to a major heart attack and surgery to kidney failure. I researched and read all that I could find about each problem, hoping to be better prepared and better able to help him. I couldn't know what next might befall him, but at least I could face each event with some understanding of what was happening. It's just the way my brain works, for better or worse. Sometimes "A little learning is a dangerous thing," as Alexander Pope warned, if it leads us to believe we know more than we do, or leads us to believe that we can control what happens to us. But sometimes it helps us cope with the unexpected.
Thus I approached my Camino training with all the enthusiasm of the convert. I read a plethora of books, and then reread my favorites, sometimes three times! Here is a list of the books I've read thus far:
My Camino Bibliography
To the Field of Stars by Kevin A. Codd
Keeping Company with Saint Ignatius: Walking the
Camino de Santiago de Compostela by Luke Larson
Hiking the Camino: 500 Miles with Jesus by Father Dave Pivonka
The Camino Preparation Handbook: Get the Maximum
Potential Out of Your Camino By Being
Prepared by Miles Hermannsdoufer
Practical Tips for Walking “The Way” by Elinor Le Barron
The Pilgrimage (Plus) by Paulo
Coelho
Grandma’s On the Camino: Reflections on a 48-Day Pilgrimage
Walk to Santiago by Mary O’Hara Wyman
Walk In A Relaxed Manner: Life Lessons from the Camino by Joyce
Rupp
Hiking the Camino de Santiago: A Village to Village
Guide by Anna Dintaman and David Landis
A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago by John Brierley
Camino Lingo: English-Spanish Words and Phrases by Reinette Novoa with Sylvia Nilsen
The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The Complete Cultural
Handbook by David M. Gitlitz and
Linda Kay Davidson
The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemmingway
St. Louis: 60 Hikes Within 60 Miles
The Year We Seized the Day by Elizabeth
Best and Colin Bowles
The Way Is A River of Stars: A Buddhist’s Journey by Helen E. Burns
Seven Tips to Make the Most of the Camino de Santiago by Cheryl
Powell
To Walk Far, Carry Less by Jean-Christie Ashmore
I’m Off Then: Losing and Finding Myself on the Camino by Kape Kerkeling
The Way Is Made By Walking by Arthur Paul Boers
Women Of the Way: Embracing the Camino by
Jane Blanchard
The Unlikely Pilgrimage of Harold Fry by Rachel Joyce
Camino de Santiago: Practical Preparation and
Background by Gerald Kelly
Camino Pilgrim Tips and Packing Lists by S Yates
Slacker Pilgrim: Guide to the Camino de Santiago by Sunshine Jen
Fumbling: a Pilgrimage Tale of Love, Grief and
Spiritual Renewal on the Camino
De
Santiago by Kerry Egan
A Million Steps
by Kurt Koonz
In Movement There is Peace by Elaine Orabona Foster and Joe Foster
The Long Road Home by Alesa Teague
The Way, My Way by Bill Bennett
No Complaints: Shut Up and Walk by Emmett Williams and Jasmine Emmerich
The Artists Journey: the Perfumed Pilgrim Tackles the
Camino de Santiago by Marcia
Shaver
Walking with Stones by William Schmidt
Redemption Road: Grieving on the Camino by Brendan
McManus SJ
Discovering the Camino de Santiago:A Priest’s Journey
to the Tomb of St. James by
Rev. Greg J. Markey
Pilgrimage To the End of the World by Conrad Rudolph
Multi-media
Blog
by Donna Erickson http://caminoafter60.blogspot.com/2013/08/in-beginning.html
Walking the Way: Six Ways to Santiago (DVD)
The Way
--2010 movie with Martin
Un Camino de Santiago—CD-- Arianna Savall, Ensemble La Fenice, Jean Tubery
Camino de Santiago forum online, a really great resource. Lots of information.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/
And there are more to come! One of the most remarkable things about these books on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage is how different each is from all the others. Each writer had a unique experience that was expressed in a unique way. The lesson to be learned is that no one's Camino is like any other's, that my Camino will be just that, MY Camino. But the fact is that I'll be walking on the same road and trails and paths, the same Way that pilgrims have walked for centuries, passing through the same villages and cities, crossing the same mountain ranges and staying in many of the same albergues, or refuges, or, if you prefer the English word, hostels. The books are my way of preparing my mind.
Thursday, April 2, 2015
A Day in the Woods
April is here, and it's time to get outdoors with my boots and pack, at least a lightweight daypack. I packed a lunch and a bottle of water, my new sarong to sit on for a picnic, and a little bag of first aid equipment (just in case) and drove out to the Shaw Nature Reserve, about a 35 minute drive outside of St. Louis.
I felt almost like a pilgrim, dressed in my Camino clothes, complete with hat, carrying a small pack and my hiking poles. I tried not to feel self-conscious but just set off on the trail with confidence and anticipation. I quickly found my pace, and I could see that my pace on the Camino is going to be slow. It's wonderful using the poles, a boost on the uphill treks and a stabilizer and balancer on the downhills. I hiked for about four miles in all, not a lot, but it took longer than it does on the indoor track, not surprisingly. And I stopped for my picnic lunch and to take pictures along the way. Mostly I wanted to keep my eyes open and pay attention to the world around me, just awakening from the long, cold winter.
It was a perfect spring day, and the daffodils were blooming in the fields by the thousands. Back in the woods I hiked the Overlook Bluff trail and stopped at the overlook for my picnic lunch. I loved the solitude I found in the woods and on the trails, as I passed other hikers infrequently, and then, not with a "Buen Camino", but with a hearty, "Hello!" On the Wildflower Trail, I saw buttercups and wild violets and spring beauties, popping up here and there. In another few weeks, the wildflowers will be out in earnest, but even now, they were beautiful, maybe even more so because of their scarcity.
This was my first test as a hiker and my Keen boots gave me almost no trouble. I had to stop to stretch, at lunchtime and one other time, when my piriformis muscle tightened and caused me to have pain behind my knee. The stretches, which I know so well now, almost always relieve the pain and I can go on in comfort.
If April continues to offer such beautiful days, training for my Camino will be a joy.
I felt almost like a pilgrim, dressed in my Camino clothes, complete with hat, carrying a small pack and my hiking poles. I tried not to feel self-conscious but just set off on the trail with confidence and anticipation. I quickly found my pace, and I could see that my pace on the Camino is going to be slow. It's wonderful using the poles, a boost on the uphill treks and a stabilizer and balancer on the downhills. I hiked for about four miles in all, not a lot, but it took longer than it does on the indoor track, not surprisingly. And I stopped for my picnic lunch and to take pictures along the way. Mostly I wanted to keep my eyes open and pay attention to the world around me, just awakening from the long, cold winter.
It was a perfect spring day, and the daffodils were blooming in the fields by the thousands. Back in the woods I hiked the Overlook Bluff trail and stopped at the overlook for my picnic lunch. I loved the solitude I found in the woods and on the trails, as I passed other hikers infrequently, and then, not with a "Buen Camino", but with a hearty, "Hello!" On the Wildflower Trail, I saw buttercups and wild violets and spring beauties, popping up here and there. In another few weeks, the wildflowers will be out in earnest, but even now, they were beautiful, maybe even more so because of their scarcity.
This was my first test as a hiker and my Keen boots gave me almost no trouble. I had to stop to stretch, at lunchtime and one other time, when my piriformis muscle tightened and caused me to have pain behind my knee. The stretches, which I know so well now, almost always relieve the pain and I can go on in comfort.
If April continues to offer such beautiful days, training for my Camino will be a joy.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)